Les Amarres is a one-of-a-kind space that’s just opened near the Gare d’Austerlitz in Paris. The latest opening from the team behind Yes We Camp – to whom Paris owes the success of Grands Voisins, notably – it is a collaboration with the charity Aurore, which specialises in the fight against poverty and social exclusion.
Francesca Riccò recently decided to leave the city and set up a base over the border in Nice. You’re now able to sample her masterful cuisine at Babel Babel.
Yorgaki, the first and only Greek café in Paris, on the Rue des Martyrs. When you go there, you’ll immediately feel like you’re on holiday, far removed from the bustle of the city around you. Here you can sip a classic Greek coffee, paired with a creamy galaktoboúreko: the perfect way to whisk you off to the Aegean.
This hangover remedy comes courtesy of Ai Loan Dupuis and Hakim El Bour, the founders of Sezono, a Parisian establishment who’d already offered up their recipe for an oyster-mushroom kebab in a previous edition of this newsletter.
The bakery in question is Nice’s Zielinska. Its founder, Dominika Zielinska, has been serving up delicious baked goods for two years now, and it was recently honoured by the Guide du Fooding. But you won’t find any baguettes or croissants here. Instead, everything is made using ancient grains and has a lengthy fermentation process.
Paris’s hottest chefs, Simon Aushcer (who’s already appeared in a previous edition of Midnight Weekly) to share one of his favourite recipes. Once again, his choice very much adheres to the principles of sustainable cooking – something integral to his culinary philosophy.
Cheese making has become so industrialised that in many cases you can hardly taste authentic stuff these days. To remedy that, we asked the visionary team from Terroirs d’Avenir to help you curate the ultimate cheese platter (and one that isn’t too bad for the environment, either).
A very typical festive French meal by Thibault Eurin, the chef at Bien Ficelé in Paris. His establishment is known for offering a unique French spin on a rotisserie-grill experience. The emphasis there is very much on sharing and conviviality, and only quality produce is to be found on the menu.
This time she’s whisking us off to the seaside. Bérangère Fagart is the founder of the restaurant Sélune in Paris, where she’s become known for her culinary creativity just as much as her luminous personality. She’s also big on sustainable cooking, and so this seafood dish should evidently use only scallops fished ethically.
Estérelle Payany initiated us in the art of creating true culinary gold from the leftovers in your fridge. We’ve invited the respected critic and chef to provide another recipe – this time from the UK.
Estérelle Payany’s palate carries a lot of weight in the culinary world, and while she evidently knows her stuff about restaurants, she’s also a peerless chef whose cookery books are well worth investing in.
Alessandra Viscardi and Marco Mattana wanted to stay somewhere near the Med, in a city where they could do what they really excel at: satisfying hearts and stomachs with Italian food that’s as tasty as it is comforting. So they set up shop just around the corner from Nice port, where locals and visitors now flock to their incredible restaurant, Epiro.
Mauritanian chef Harouna Sow works (when he’s not pursuing charity projects, like cooking several tens of thousands of meals for care workers and poor students during the successive lockdowns). This week he’s also provided us with a spicy vegetarian recipe that makes the ideal remedy to the onset of autumn.
Rambo would have to say about it, but this restaurant is also really committed to promoting sustainable food practices above all. Pull up a chair here, and you won’t have to ask any awkward questions about the provenance of what’s on your plate. And as in the case of the recipe that co-founders Edouard and Benjamin have shared below, the restaurant also makes eliminating food waste a big priority.
We asked a chef to suggest a vegetarian version. Some of you will no doubt be sceptical. Hamburger, after all, is the name of a certain kind of steak originating from Hamburg, served in a brioche bun, which was the classic factory-canteen food of the city’s workers.
The ever-innovative Désirée was founded in Paris in 2017, under the aegis of Mathilde Bignon and Audrey Venant. Both very into their flowers, they opened a first, then a second, café-florist – so you can sip coffee surrounded by all manner of brilliant sights and smells.
Take a gastronomic journey with the respected chef Sugio Yamaguchi, who takes as his aim the exploration of produce; going as off the beaten track as possible. That makes sense for this Tokyo local who plied his trade in Lyon initially, before really making his name at Botanique (Paris) over several years.
As brilliant as he is modest, Christian Qui was the winner of the Fooding’s ‘Meilleure Table’ prize in 2021. And it was in Goudes, a part of Marseille that looks uncannily like a Corsican village, that he made his name.
This recipe is from none other than Ai Loan Dupuis, the brilliant mind behind Sezono (season in esperanto), the restaurant-cum-market-cum-deli in Paris’s 10th arrondissement.
Another excellent dish by the chef, who’s widely considered one of the world’s greatest Italian cooks. This recipe was conceived as a morning-after remedy, if you’ve gone a little hard on a night out. That’s why it’s called ‘midnight spaghetti’.
Because you can never get too much of a good thing when it comes to food. We’re delighted to share with you a recipe from the repertoire of new-gen Parisian chef Charles Compagnon.
He’s undoubtedly the most acclaimed Roman chef in the world. Giovanni Passerini has done us the honour of sharing one of his favourite recipes. On the menu? Gricia, a true classic of Roman cooking. Buon appetito!
Chef Alexia Duchêne shares a brilliantly simple way to use up that halloumi you’ve got at the back of the fridge. A semi-healthy summer pick-me-up for two people.
The recipe is the work of Angèle Ferreux-Maeght, whose restaurant La Guinguette d’Angèle (Paris) places an emphasis on seasonal and well-sourced produce.
A recipe that makes the perfect summer weeknight dinner. At Erba Brusca, where she has her own herb garden, the chef Alice Delcourt cooks up exquisite dishes that always chime with Wendell Berry’s famous mantra, ‘eating is an agricultural act’.
It's the turn of Danish chef Christian Kanstrup Pedersen who heads up Michelin-starred Pure & V (Nice, France) to share one of his favourite recipes: a beef tartare you’ll probably be thinking about for weeks afterwards. To the kitchen!
We’ve asked Bertrand Grébaut, sustainable cookery pioneer and owner of Michelin-star restaurant Septime, to give us the lowdown on a timeless Parisian classic. À table!
We went to Bérangère Fagart, the much-hyped chef from Sélune in Paris, who sent over an excellent gazpacho recipe. This classic Spanish dish, a cold soup, is often served as an aperitif or starter, and is a go-to when the temperature really starts to rise.