Sezono's oyster-mushroom kebab

A sumptuous, sustainable street-food staple

So it might seem a bit obvious to offer up a recipe for kebabs in our Istanbul-themed edition of the newsletter. Except, this isn’t any old recipe we’re sharing. In fact, this little number is from none other than Ai Loan Dupuis, the brilliant mind behind Sezono (season in esperanto), the restaurant-cum-market-cum-deli in Paris’s 10th arrondissement. This restaurant has become quite simply one of the most successful proponents of sustainable cooking in France: every dish is vegetarian, and uses only local, organic, seasonal produce. Try this low-carbon recipe and you’ll wonder why you’ve always gone for the meat options down your local kebab shop.

Ingredients for one kebab:

One pitta
50g yoghurt
One slice of preserved lemon
Three wild garlic flowers (or one blanched garlic clove)
200g oyster mushrooms
One garlic clove
Two tablespoons of olive oil
Half a teaspoon of cumin
Half a teaspoon of ground coriander
Quarter of a red onion
Green salad, lamb’s lettuce or purslane
Salt and pepper


Preheat the oven to 200C

Roughly chop the oyster mushrooms and mix in a bowl with a tablespoon of olive oil, one garlic clove (finely chopped), the spices and seasoning.

Place in the oven for 20 minutes at 200C until lightly caramelised.

Make the white sauce, mixing together the yoghurt, chopped-up lemon, torn wildflowers, one tablespoon of olive oil and more seasoning.

Toast the bread and fill with the mushrooms, the white sauce, the finely sliced red onion and the salad.

The success of Sezono was made possible both by the chef and her partner, Hakim El Bour, in charge of front of house – and who very much knows his stuff when it comes to wine. To go alongside this original dish, he recommends an Abouriou Barrique (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). And if you really want to get things right, make sure to open this sulphite-free red around 15 minutes before taking your first sip.

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