Velkommen til København!

For a long time, a sleeper train left Paris’s Gare du Nord for Copenhagen (København in Danish), allowing passengers to wake up in a city defined by subdued elegance everywhere you look. While we wait for this line to be reborn thanks to our trains, Midnight Weekly will whisk you on a flying visit to this most beautiful of European capitals.

There’s something inherently calming about the Kingdom of Denmark. A former prime minister of the country put it like this: ‘You’ll hardly ever see a Dane with a knife in his hand, without him also having a fork in the other.’ It’s a neat little line that sums up Copenhageners’ general way of life, and how any person can quite quickly find their place (and feel at home) in this city.

You’ll no doubt have a blast wandering the colourful, pedestrianised Nyhavn harbour, which gets pretty lively at night; the ‘free town’ of Christiana, where you can smoke as much weed as you please; or the cafés, boutiques and parks of impeccably trendy Nørrebro.

To do really Copenhagen like a local, here are some ideas that are very much off the tourist track. Try the city’s best kanelsnegle (cinnamon rolls) at Juno The Bakery. Do your bit for the environment by joining the team at Green Kayak, a troupe of volunteers who go around cleaning the canals by kayak: an excellent way to see the city all while giving something back to locals. For an unforgettable night out, head to the roof terrace of urban farm ØsterGro, where you can reserve a table at Grospiseri, an excellent restaurant with epic views over the city.

Finally, how could we talk about Copenhagen without highlighting its status as the world cycling capital? Well ahead of its time when it comes to promoting getting around on two wheels, the city now has more than 672,000 bikes – or five times the number of cars. Cycling fans, grab your diaries: in 2022, the Tour de France will be kicking off from here. Makes sense.

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